On our second day in Buenos Aires, we battled the bus system to get to the neighborhood of Boca. In BA, the buses don't actually stop at the bus stop, even if you flag it down. You basically have to fling yourself in front of the bus and then yell at the driver when you make it through the door and up the steps. That pretty much seemed to be the custom there.... Well anyway, we made it to Boca - literally the mouth of the river. It used to be the cheapest housing in town and the tradition of the crazy colors comes from the inhabitants using whatever old ship paint they could find at the docks. It is no longer a busy docking area, but the artists have taken over. Boca is now a tourist trap (but a fun tourist trap) with some really good art hidden in the corners. The surrounding neighborhoods are still extremely poor and dangerous for outsiders to venture into.
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